Toyota 8" front locker

[controlfreak]

Anybody have experience with a front locker for a Toy 8"? I'd really like that TRD high pinion electric unit from Inchworm but with housing mods and a 5.29 R&P it'll be 1k$$$+ Ouch!!! Has anyone used a LockRight. What about a TruTrac LS?:confused:

[goin4xn]

Call Carl Whitmore at RockLogic - he can do the mod work a LOT cheaper than anyone else. He's got a little Flatfender that he's running with a toyota drivetrain. He's got the TRD electric lockers front and rear. Let him know that I sent ya!

Carl's number is: 250-7820

Scott

[Skyetone]

had a true track in an IFS. It sucked. slipped at the most inopertune times!! My detroit doesn't in my 8inch..:D

[controlfreak]

You run a Detroit in the front?

[Skyetone]

yea? is there a problem :D :cool:

[Greg]

I run a True Trac in the front and its OK. I have been learning more concerning how to wheel with it. You can't just drive and expect it to work. If my tires start to spin and the frontend just isn't getting traction, I slowly hit the brakes and the tire spinning is slowed and the tire with traction grabs hold and will then pull me up. It has worked MANY times, especially on the rocks. I like it, but I bought the truck with it already there, otherwise I would have put in a Lockrite.

I'd sell the TruTrac, if your intrested. It's not bad and I haven't busted a Birf yet! I do want a true locker though. :D

[controlfreak]

No problem Sky...just wondering. No steering probs, etc...? I think I'll go the less expensive route and do a Quicklock or Lockrite. Thanks for the offer on the TruTrac though. Last question to any tire experts: Does dry rot, ie... small to medium sized cracks in the side of the tire mean it's completely worthless for anything other that a swing? The interior of the bias ply tire I'm looking at looks good and appears flawless but there are minor surface cracks. Any suggestions?

[Skyetone]

yea I loose a little steering but no big deal....Greg that works if you have gears...If you don't you stall trying to three foot it...
Dry rot will be answered on the dry rot post :D

[DToy]

I ran a Full Detroit in the front of my truck for two days of hard wheeling in Moab last weekend. I wouldn't go any other way. I ran 37" Tires and didn't even hear a birfield pop.

I'd stay away from a lockright for the front. I have several friends that have/have had them in the front and they seem to break at least one birfield every trip out.

Here's a link to the best price I've found on a Detroit:

Toy 8" Detroit for $395 shipped to your door! (http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page23.html)

You can do a detroit and a twin stick in the transfer case for less than the cost of just an ARB Locker itself.

[controlfreak]

Are you running stock Birfields? I was looking at those super birfs/longfields but I really didn't want to buy them if I can run a Detroit and not break a stock birfield. I wasn't planning on going any bigger than a 35" tire.

[DToy]

I am running stock birfields.

[Ryan]

Originally posted by DToy
I ran a Full Detroit in the front of my truck for two days of hard wheeling in Moab last weekend. I wouldn't go any other way. I ran 37" Tires and didn't even hear a birfield pop.

I'd stay away from a lockright for the front. I have several friends that have/have had them in the front and they seem to break at least one birfield every trip out.



A full case Detroit and a Lockright do the EXACT same thing. Both are automatic lockers. You're probably just a better driver than your friends :D

[DToy]

If you've driven with both (as I have) you know that the lockright pops and shock loads the axle alot more than the Detroit. I hardly ever feel the Detroit in the rear of my Toy on the road, but when I had a lockright it would ratchet and pop and try to throw you all over the road. I think the Detroit operates smoother than the lockright. Plus the Detroit is much stronger.

[Ryan]

Originally posted by DToy
If you've driven with both (as I have) you know that the lockright pops and shock loads the axle alot more than the Detroit. I hardly ever feel the Detroit in the rear of my Toy on the road, but when I had a lockright it would ratchet and pop and try to throw you all over the road. I think the Detroit operates smoother than the lockright. Plus the Detroit is much stronger.


The Lockright is definitely rougher, and the Detroit is definitely stronger, and I have run both as well. But in a front application I personally don't think the difference is enough to warrant spending the extra cash on the Detroit, unless of course you have the extra cash;). It doesn't effect streetability at all, and I think driving style will account for less broken birfields a WHOLE lot more than one locker over another will. Anyway, my $.02. :)

[Greg]

Originally posted by Skyetone
Greg that works if you have gears...If you don't you stall trying to three foot it...

Of Course! But it works for me, till I get a locker.

[controlfreak]

$395 is the cheapest I've ever seen a Detroit advertised for. Install is about $200. I need to find the 5.29's now and do it all at once :D

[Skyetone]

I need to find time to go break my birfs..Got longfields on the way. I plan on running 40's so the upgrade was nesecary. I broke one birf. I was on pavement and wanted to climb a snow bank. Turned and gave it gas. POP. It will give me some fight on steering on pavement. I just shift into 2wd for a sec and turn. Put it back into 4wd and presto. Good price on the detroit BTW.

[controlfreak]

If you're not set on 40's I know where you can get some 38.5's. What do you think I'd need lift-wise to run a 38? It would probably be best to go to crossover steering too. And SuperBirfs.

[Skyetone]

82? 5in suspention,2in body,axle forward2 trimming
how mutch $$$ on the 38-5s

[controlfreak]

The tires are 38.5X14.5R15 Swamper TSL SX's. They're mounted on 15X12 8 lugs. He wants $1100 for everything and he said he'd break up the set.

[Skyetone]

just got 15-10 8lugs. Don't need 12. the 40's are here and free. 1100$ will resto my new tow rig... Thanx though.